Hippos are unique creatures; large and cumbersome, while swift and intelligent. Mostly herbivores, the males can weigh as much as 4,000 lbs; females s up to 3300. Called the “river horse” the hippo needs water to keep their skin from overheating in the intense African sun.

A picnic at the Hippo Pool made us a bit nervous in 2015. Traveling again to Africa in 2019, we encountered another chance to meet the hippo in their own habitat. This time our mode of transportation was in two-person canoes.

Hippos can be extremely dangerous, they are probably one of the most dangerous animals in Africa. Be aware they can both trot and gallop and can reach speeds up to 19 miles per hour. Chasing humans or boats, they can be quick and efficient. Viewing their mouths open wide, their tusks bared for a fight, can be a frightening experience. Especially if you are too close to them, which we were.

Paddling seemed easy to me even though I had never tried it. Gliding with the current, one hardly thinks about a hippo attack. But suddenly we could see a pod of younger males leaving the side of the river and entering the water. The guide pointed to several other huge hippo heads popping up with ears twitching. Then out of nowhere, we were faced with several of them, closer to us than we would ever want to be. Hippos yawning is a funny site to see. Hippos angry is neither funny, nor safe. Their mouths are stretched wide, their tusk-like teeth a fearful sight. That combined with a roar that is deafening is a fearful experience. But our ever-ready guides knew just what to do. They began to shout at us. “Move now. Paddle! Paddle! Paddle, NOW!.”

It happened that I was in the lead canoe. My guide started tapping the side of the canoe with his oar, harder and harder he slapped at the boat. Then he too shouted, “Paddle, Paddle now!” And I did, like my life depended on it.

We got through the foray safely that day. Winding along the river and back to our camp, a glass of wine, beer and snacks awaited us. It was an extreme moment, heart racing and sweaty palms to say the least. But thanks to our expert guides we were all safe and I felt lucky to be alive and relaxing once again on solid ground.